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Classic peacoat style gets a fresh look [true religion jeans]
As a classic garment, the peacoat has historic significance.
"The peacoat is an iconic piece of classic American style," says Lands' End's Annie Short. "Peacoats were originally worn by sailors in the American and European navy. It is a classic silhouette that never goes out of style, but can always be updated with modern twists. The broad lapels, double-breasted front and detailed buttons look fantastic on most frames and add a touch of style to all outfits."
This winter, the peacoat returns with an update on silhouettes, fabrics, trims and details, Short says. Bold colors and patterns turn the classic navy peacoat into a fashionable piece of outerwear.
The peacoat originated centuries ago and eventually became a staple for both men and women, says L.L. Bean's A.J. Curran.
"They look equally good with jeans or chinos, and many versions have enough length that they can be worn over a blazer," Curran says. "Designers are consistently tweaking proportional details such as collar width and length. Additionally, you now often see belted or hooded versions that were not part of the original issue. If you're buying your first peacoat, look for a classic version.
"A well-made peacoat is a timeless outerwear piece, and you will get many years of service from one, especially with a little insulation to extend the seasonal wearing versatility," he says.
Schott NYC made melton wool peacoats for the U.S. Navy during World War II. They are still made the same way today at the family's factory in Elizabeth, N.J. The line is available locally through Roberta Weissburg Leathers.
The peacoat has endured because of its clean and classic lines, as well as its ability to be reinvented, says Gregg Andrews, Nordstrom fashion director.
Bolder and brighter colors, from red to cobalt blue, and hues such as white and cream have added some pop to the classic peacoat, Andrews says.
"Some are even done in shorter lengths, as well as with faux fur trim or shearling or leather," Andrews says. "Like the trench coat, a peacoat lends itself to being updated and reinvented every season. It also is an item that works for women of any age. The style can be re-interpreted to reflect what's in style this season."
Peacoats tend to look best when worn with pants, he says.
"The peacoat is a classic, like a trench coat, and will exist every year," says Marissa Rubin, senior market editor for People Style Watch. "Some women might play it up and go with a bold, bright color. We are also seeing a contrast in fabrics, such as leather sleeves with the wool coat. A peacoat is definitely something you can buy now and that you have in your wardrobe forever."
Shopping for a coat
People Style Watch offers this advice on how to shop for a coat:
Wear the right outfit. Be sure to try on any coat over the clothes you plan to wear it with. A coat can look different over a dress versus a sweater, or with flats versus boots or heels.
Don't be afraid to go up a size. You want to layer comfortably. Take it to the tailor if you need adjustments in sleeves or length.
Look for design details. A removable hood and fleece-lined pockets can add warmth. Try a belt or seams for a flattering shape.
Choose your fabric. Wool is a great low-maintenance option that's wind-resistant and provides protection against rain and snow. Down provides lightweight warmth. Shearling and cashmere are luxurious and warm but require more care.
Help it last. Clean your coat twice a season. Have a professional take care of wool, cashmere or anything with leather, suede or fur trim. Most down can be machine-washed.
"The peacoat is an iconic piece of classic American style," says Lands' End's Annie Short. "Peacoats were originally worn by sailors in the American and European navy. It is a classic silhouette that never goes out of style, but can always be updated with modern twists. The broad lapels, double-breasted front and detailed buttons look fantastic on most frames and add a touch of style to all outfits."
This winter, the peacoat returns with an update on silhouettes, fabrics, trims and details, Short says. Bold colors and patterns turn the classic navy peacoat into a fashionable piece of outerwear.
The peacoat originated centuries ago and eventually became a staple for both men and women, says L.L. Bean's A.J. Curran.
"They look equally good with jeans or chinos, and many versions have enough length that they can be worn over a blazer," Curran says. "Designers are consistently tweaking proportional details such as collar width and length. Additionally, you now often see belted or hooded versions that were not part of the original issue. If you're buying your first peacoat, look for a classic version.
"A well-made peacoat is a timeless outerwear piece, and you will get many years of service from one, especially with a little insulation to extend the seasonal wearing versatility," he says.
Schott NYC made melton wool peacoats for the U.S. Navy during World War II. They are still made the same way today at the family's factory in Elizabeth, N.J. The line is available locally through Roberta Weissburg Leathers.
The peacoat has endured because of its clean and classic lines, as well as its ability to be reinvented, says Gregg Andrews, Nordstrom fashion director.
Bolder and brighter colors, from red to cobalt blue, and hues such as white and cream have added some pop to the classic peacoat, Andrews says.
"Some are even done in shorter lengths, as well as with faux fur trim or shearling or leather," Andrews says. "Like the trench coat, a peacoat lends itself to being updated and reinvented every season. It also is an item that works for women of any age. The style can be re-interpreted to reflect what's in style this season."
Peacoats tend to look best when worn with pants, he says.
"The peacoat is a classic, like a trench coat, and will exist every year," says Marissa Rubin, senior market editor for People Style Watch. "Some women might play it up and go with a bold, bright color. We are also seeing a contrast in fabrics, such as leather sleeves with the wool coat. A peacoat is definitely something you can buy now and that you have in your wardrobe forever."
Shopping for a coat
People Style Watch offers this advice on how to shop for a coat:
Wear the right outfit. Be sure to try on any coat over the clothes you plan to wear it with. A coat can look different over a dress versus a sweater, or with flats versus boots or heels.
Don't be afraid to go up a size. You want to layer comfortably. Take it to the tailor if you need adjustments in sleeves or length.
Look for design details. A removable hood and fleece-lined pockets can add warmth. Try a belt or seams for a flattering shape.
Choose your fabric. Wool is a great low-maintenance option that's wind-resistant and provides protection against rain and snow. Down provides lightweight warmth. Shearling and cashmere are luxurious and warm but require more care.
Help it last. Clean your coat twice a season. Have a professional take care of wool, cashmere or anything with leather, suede or fur trim. Most down can be machine-washed.
Sri Lankan fashion brand Aviraté opens first store in India at Bangalore [true religion jeans]
Aviraté, a Sri Lankan fashion brand, has opened its first flagship store in India at Indiranagar, Bangalore. The outlet offers a range of western wear, including tops, blouses, tunics, jeans, shorts, and skirts. Accessories for women such as scarves, bags, shoes, belts, and jewelry are also available at the store.
The store offers dresses ranging from Rs 1,800 to 8,500. Tops and shirts are priced between Rs 700 to 3, 600 while jeans are available in the range of Rs 1700 and 2,600. Avirate shoes cost between Rs 1600 and 7700. The price for the brand's handbags starts Rs 1200 onwards while accessories such as scarves and jewelry cost Rs 300 and 400 onwards, respectively.
Aviraté will also have another store at Phoenix Market City, Whitefield, Bangalore by December 2011. The brand also introduces new styles each week. The clothes are manufactured in company-owned factories in Sri Lanka where it launched its first store in 2010.
Aviraté is distributed and marketed in India exclusively by Fashion 365. The brand is a venture by Timex, one of the top five apparel manufacturers of Sri Lanka. Partnering with some of the biggest names in fashion, such as Espirit, Wallis, M&Co, Jones New York, Diesel', and Marks & Spencer. Timex is also amongst the top 10 apparel manufacturers in the world.
The store offers dresses ranging from Rs 1,800 to 8,500. Tops and shirts are priced between Rs 700 to 3, 600 while jeans are available in the range of Rs 1700 and 2,600. Avirate shoes cost between Rs 1600 and 7700. The price for the brand's handbags starts Rs 1200 onwards while accessories such as scarves and jewelry cost Rs 300 and 400 onwards, respectively.
Aviraté will also have another store at Phoenix Market City, Whitefield, Bangalore by December 2011. The brand also introduces new styles each week. The clothes are manufactured in company-owned factories in Sri Lanka where it launched its first store in 2010.
Aviraté is distributed and marketed in India exclusively by Fashion 365. The brand is a venture by Timex, one of the top five apparel manufacturers of Sri Lanka. Partnering with some of the biggest names in fashion, such as Espirit, Wallis, M&Co, Jones New York, Diesel', and Marks & Spencer. Timex is also amongst the top 10 apparel manufacturers in the world.
Signs of Mexico's Ascendance Versus China [true religion jeans]
Over the past two decades China emerged as a manufacturing powerhouse, dominating production in industries ranging from textiles to solar panels, semiconductors to wind turbines. Among the countries hardest hit by China's rise – and ascension to the WTO in 2001 — was Mexico. In its wake, Mexico's maquila industry shed thousands of jobs. On factory floors and the halls of government alike everyone talked about the possibility – and in many cases actuality – of plants leaving for the Far East.
But the decade long status quo seems to be shifting again, this time back in Mexico's favor. More and more plants are opening in Mexico – a mix of new businesses as well as some returnees. One reason is the rising cost of labor in China. Where once China's wages undercut countries such as Mexico several times over, today the differential is much lower. With China's strong economic growth and rising per capita incomes, wages too have risen — increasing 22 percent in 2011 alone. When combined with an ever more competitive Mexican peso, many analysts estimate the labor differential between China and Mexico at just 15 percent today.
This much smaller difference no longer offsets Mexico's geographic advantage. Particularly in a scenario of high oil prices, the long plane or boat ride away from American shores – still the world's largest economy and consumer — is a drawback. Mexico's maquila industry too transformed in the last decade, making the most of its strengths. Where once most of the factories lining the border were purely labor arbitrage — sewing blue jeans and crafting Converse sneakers — today an increasing number run highly sophisticated, customized manufacturing operations. Aerospace companies, including Goodrich and Bombardier, have opened operations in Mexico in the last few years, as have many other high tech manufacturers that depend on fast, efficient, technically advanced responses and that create high value added products.
This shift bodes well for Mexican growth, if it continues and expands. To do this, Mexico will need to tackle a few stubborn issues. The most obvious is security. While foreign investment continues, nearly all executives think twice before opening new facilities near the border. One can't measure the counter-factual, but a safer Mexico undoubtedly would bring more investment, more jobs, and higher economic growth.
A second challenge is the still antiquated and at times overwhelmed border crossings. Many of the current crossings need major renovations or upgrades to help shoulder their part of the now $1 billion dollars of goods and thousands of trucks that cross each day. Waits are not only at times quite long, but also often unpredictable, throwing the delicate just-in-time delivery dance of modern manufacturing into turmoil. The new U.S.-Mexico trucking agreement should alleviate some of these costs, but only if it becomes a full-fledged, permanent – as opposed to pilot – program. With the current mandate still limited, most trucking companies are holding off on the technological investments needed to enter the U.S. market, uncertain about the future payback.
Resolving these issues should give Mexico an edge over China. But in addition, it would strengthen North America vis-à-vis its competitors in the global marketplace, benefiting the United States in the process.
But the decade long status quo seems to be shifting again, this time back in Mexico's favor. More and more plants are opening in Mexico – a mix of new businesses as well as some returnees. One reason is the rising cost of labor in China. Where once China's wages undercut countries such as Mexico several times over, today the differential is much lower. With China's strong economic growth and rising per capita incomes, wages too have risen — increasing 22 percent in 2011 alone. When combined with an ever more competitive Mexican peso, many analysts estimate the labor differential between China and Mexico at just 15 percent today.
This much smaller difference no longer offsets Mexico's geographic advantage. Particularly in a scenario of high oil prices, the long plane or boat ride away from American shores – still the world's largest economy and consumer — is a drawback. Mexico's maquila industry too transformed in the last decade, making the most of its strengths. Where once most of the factories lining the border were purely labor arbitrage — sewing blue jeans and crafting Converse sneakers — today an increasing number run highly sophisticated, customized manufacturing operations. Aerospace companies, including Goodrich and Bombardier, have opened operations in Mexico in the last few years, as have many other high tech manufacturers that depend on fast, efficient, technically advanced responses and that create high value added products.
This shift bodes well for Mexican growth, if it continues and expands. To do this, Mexico will need to tackle a few stubborn issues. The most obvious is security. While foreign investment continues, nearly all executives think twice before opening new facilities near the border. One can't measure the counter-factual, but a safer Mexico undoubtedly would bring more investment, more jobs, and higher economic growth.
A second challenge is the still antiquated and at times overwhelmed border crossings. Many of the current crossings need major renovations or upgrades to help shoulder their part of the now $1 billion dollars of goods and thousands of trucks that cross each day. Waits are not only at times quite long, but also often unpredictable, throwing the delicate just-in-time delivery dance of modern manufacturing into turmoil. The new U.S.-Mexico trucking agreement should alleviate some of these costs, but only if it becomes a full-fledged, permanent – as opposed to pilot – program. With the current mandate still limited, most trucking companies are holding off on the technological investments needed to enter the U.S. market, uncertain about the future payback.
Resolving these issues should give Mexico an edge over China. But in addition, it would strengthen North America vis-à-vis its competitors in the global marketplace, benefiting the United States in the process.
In retail, it's frontline sales staff to the fore [true religion jeans]
When 19-year-old Naina walked into a leading lifestyle retail store, she had planned to buy one pair of her favourite brand of jeans. Half-an-hour later, she walked out with two pairs of jeans, three Tees and a belt.
A similar experience is recounted by a 62-year-old Swami who went to his neighbourhood supermarket to pick up some groceries. His basket soon filled up with at least five items he did not plan to buy.
Cashing in on the ‘unplanned purchase' mindset of the modern Indian consumer, retail players are now training their frontline sales staff in ‘cross-selling' (selling related items) and up-selling (selling items of a higher value).
Mr Bijou Kurien, President and CEO, Lifestyle at Reliance Retail, says that cross-selling and up-selling are KRAs (key result areas) for frontline sales staff. “This is part of the training programme in any retail company. It's clear that consumption will drive growth.”
Says Ms Arvinder Soora, HR Head of Planet Retail, employees now understand that targets are measured in terms of how many products go into a single bill and how to increase the average transaction value. “We also realise that our sales staff are not just hands and legs. They need to be trained in understanding customer needs and so we regularly conduct programmes.”
At Future Group's stores such as Central and Brand Factory, it's not just sales staff that nudge customers to fill their baskets, even cashiers have been trained to sell items at the cash point. “Most of the time, cashiers know regular customers and what their needs are and, therefore, can up-sell or cross-sell better,” says Mr Kripesh Hariharan, HR Head, People Office, Central and Brand Factory.
At the Landmark Group of stores such as Lifestyle, Max and Spar, the sales staff's performance is measured on the customers' basket size and the average bill value generated. Mr B. Venkataramana, Chief People Officer, Landmark Group India, says that each employee carries a Career Passport that indicates his or her performance and, therefore, promotion.
A similar experience is recounted by a 62-year-old Swami who went to his neighbourhood supermarket to pick up some groceries. His basket soon filled up with at least five items he did not plan to buy.
Cashing in on the ‘unplanned purchase' mindset of the modern Indian consumer, retail players are now training their frontline sales staff in ‘cross-selling' (selling related items) and up-selling (selling items of a higher value).
Mr Bijou Kurien, President and CEO, Lifestyle at Reliance Retail, says that cross-selling and up-selling are KRAs (key result areas) for frontline sales staff. “This is part of the training programme in any retail company. It's clear that consumption will drive growth.”
Says Ms Arvinder Soora, HR Head of Planet Retail, employees now understand that targets are measured in terms of how many products go into a single bill and how to increase the average transaction value. “We also realise that our sales staff are not just hands and legs. They need to be trained in understanding customer needs and so we regularly conduct programmes.”
At Future Group's stores such as Central and Brand Factory, it's not just sales staff that nudge customers to fill their baskets, even cashiers have been trained to sell items at the cash point. “Most of the time, cashiers know regular customers and what their needs are and, therefore, can up-sell or cross-sell better,” says Mr Kripesh Hariharan, HR Head, People Office, Central and Brand Factory.
At the Landmark Group of stores such as Lifestyle, Max and Spar, the sales staff's performance is measured on the customers' basket size and the average bill value generated. Mr B. Venkataramana, Chief People Officer, Landmark Group India, says that each employee carries a Career Passport that indicates his or her performance and, therefore, promotion.
Does Egypt's Real Revolution Start Now? [true religion jeans]
Col. Eyad Emam was an exemplary Egyptian military officer. The 40-year-old father of three had served in air defense for most of his career. He was an instructor at the military institute and wrote two manuals used in military schools. In April of this year he was scheduled to travel to the United States for special training.
So his older brother, Ayman, was surprised when he got a phone call on April 15 from a number he didn't recognize, and it turned out to be the colonel. Eyad said he was talking on a new mobile because he suspected that his old one was being tapped.
"What did you do wrong?" asked Ayman.
"Nothing," said the colonel.
"Is it related to the revolution?"
"Sort of, yes."
The following day, Eyad Emam was arrested while on duty, and the next time his brother saw him was weeks later in a military court. With Eyad were five of the 22 other commissioned officers who had been jailed with him. Some had been arrested protesting in Tahrir Square in a raid by security forces during the early hours of April 9. Others, like Emam, were seen as connected to the protesters in some way, including over Facebook. In court, the colonel tried to hide his handcuffs from his brother. He had lost weight, he was unshaven, and there were tears in his eyes. He didn't really want to talk. "I am not a traitor," he said. "None of us is a traitor."
That conversation, part of a personal tragedy for the officer and his family, is also key to the national tragedy of Egypt right now. On the eve of parliamentary elections arranged by the military high command, the country has exploded. In massive, often violent protests, tens of thousands of civilians are challenging the generals' idea of democracy—which holds that the military's authority is unquestioned and its finances and inner workings are untouchable—as simply not good enough.
Out on the streets amid the tear gas, the truncheons, the Molotov cocktails, and the flying rocks, protesters have tried to restart the revolution they thought had been won nine months ago. Last week 42 people were killed in the riots, hundreds were injured, and tens of thousands once again marched into Tahrir Square as they did when they demanded, and got, the resignation of President Hosni Mubarak last February.
Now the crowds call for the removal of the octogenarian Field Marshal Mohamed Hussein Tantawi and the other top officers in the Supreme Council of the Armed Forces—Mubarak appointees who facilitated the president's removal and who have ruled the country since. But the generals, apart from making some largely symbolic concessions, remained unmoved. "We will not relinquish power because a slogan-chanting crowd said so," Maj. Gen. Mukhtar el-Malla declared at a televised news conference last week.
So his older brother, Ayman, was surprised when he got a phone call on April 15 from a number he didn't recognize, and it turned out to be the colonel. Eyad said he was talking on a new mobile because he suspected that his old one was being tapped.
"What did you do wrong?" asked Ayman.
"Nothing," said the colonel.
"Is it related to the revolution?"
"Sort of, yes."
The following day, Eyad Emam was arrested while on duty, and the next time his brother saw him was weeks later in a military court. With Eyad were five of the 22 other commissioned officers who had been jailed with him. Some had been arrested protesting in Tahrir Square in a raid by security forces during the early hours of April 9. Others, like Emam, were seen as connected to the protesters in some way, including over Facebook. In court, the colonel tried to hide his handcuffs from his brother. He had lost weight, he was unshaven, and there were tears in his eyes. He didn't really want to talk. "I am not a traitor," he said. "None of us is a traitor."
That conversation, part of a personal tragedy for the officer and his family, is also key to the national tragedy of Egypt right now. On the eve of parliamentary elections arranged by the military high command, the country has exploded. In massive, often violent protests, tens of thousands of civilians are challenging the generals' idea of democracy—which holds that the military's authority is unquestioned and its finances and inner workings are untouchable—as simply not good enough.
Out on the streets amid the tear gas, the truncheons, the Molotov cocktails, and the flying rocks, protesters have tried to restart the revolution they thought had been won nine months ago. Last week 42 people were killed in the riots, hundreds were injured, and tens of thousands once again marched into Tahrir Square as they did when they demanded, and got, the resignation of President Hosni Mubarak last February.
Now the crowds call for the removal of the octogenarian Field Marshal Mohamed Hussein Tantawi and the other top officers in the Supreme Council of the Armed Forces—Mubarak appointees who facilitated the president's removal and who have ruled the country since. But the generals, apart from making some largely symbolic concessions, remained unmoved. "We will not relinquish power because a slogan-chanting crowd said so," Maj. Gen. Mukhtar el-Malla declared at a televised news conference last week.
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